|
|
|||
 |
Italian Wine News |
|
|
Enotria: Italian Wine Secrets – Podere Castorani
|
|||
 Custom Search
|
Is it fair to compare a vineyard to a Formula 1 car racing circuit?
At first though the comparison may seem paradoxical. However, if we take into consideration the many unknowns faced by both the vintner and the race pilot, their grit and desire to push the envelope, as well as the desire to attain ever more exalted goals, the perceived differences between the two becomes fewer.
Jarno Trulli
Jarno Trulli, Formula 1 driver and wine producer, provides a vivid example of how these two worlds live armoniously side by side. In partnership with his father, Enzo, and others, Trulli co-owns Podere Castorani, an important estate in the wine world of the Abruzzo region.
Located on the Pescara hills in the municipality of Alanno, with vineyards framed by the Gran Sasso and Maiella peaks, it is enveloped in a favorable microclimate. In the last 10 years the estate has achieved important results. As of today, the winery owns 32 hectares (79 acres) of vineyards, and rents 45 hectares (111 acres) more. The vines average about 30 years of age, and produce 27 different wines, which age in a new 5,000-square-meter (over 53,800 square feet) underground cellar whose construction was completed in 2006. Total wine production grew from 18,000 bottles in 2000, to over one million bottles produced today.
"It has not been easy to reach these objectives," says Jarno Trulli. "The ongoing capital investment has gone forward in tune with the desire to improve our wines incrementally, aiming to produce wines that are well accepted by the market, but at the same time are able to express the terroir. We are evermore convinced that it is the vineyards which must be expressed by the wine, rather than human intervention."
Podere Castorani: Winery
The communication and information about the wine are an important subject for this wine estate.
"Traveling around the world we discovered that communicating the essence of wine is not simple at all. In the case of our Montepulciano [d'Abruzzo] for instance, in order to bypass its limitated knowledgeability [on the world market], quality producers should join in a team of sorts to expand the recognition of this product worldwide. I face the market taking inspiration from the Formula 1 racing world, from where I come, where preparation, quality and timing are capital when facing a challenge."
Another particular choice made by the estate, in times such as these, when standardization appears to rule the enology world, is focusing production on native vines, which specifically express different characteristics based upon the micro environment of diverse vineyads and types of soil.
Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, Malvasia, Coccociola, Pecorino, and Passerina are the vine varieties which make up most of the production and are bottled both as varietals and in blends.
Podere Castorani: Cellar
"From a technical point of view," says the winemaker, Angelo Molisani, "we do not need international grapes. Just think of the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo which, from microclimate to microclimate is able to express itself in different types of wine. Avoiding chasing after the characteristics of international grape varieties, the estate has made the pursuit of native vines, which are able to express our land at its best, its strongest point. Our philosophy is to start with quality grapes, then to be able to bring their typical aromas to the glass. Various factors, including particular winemaking techniques, the use of selected yeast, the use of light filtration and overall, a delicate use of wood barrels, allow each wine to express its character at its finest."
The opportunity to taste a selection of the best Podere Castorani wines was offered by one of the many events organized by the AIS Lazio (Latium chapter of the Italia Azassopciation of Sommeliers.) Jarno Trulli and Angelo Molisani presented the following nine wines: three whites, one blush, four red and, provocatively, closing the tasting with a white wine.
Le Paranze Passerina Colline Pescaresi IGT 2010.
This wine is made with grapes from one of the few "young" (just seven years old) vineyards of the estate. The balance found in the 2010 vintage allowed the bottling as varietal. Straw yellow in color with greenish highlights, 12.5% alcohol, this is the most vertical among the white wines tasted. The nose offers citrusy notes and white flowers, such as acacia and hawthorn, enriched by mineral and salty notes. The typical acidity of the grape variety, which is enhanced by thel terroir is excellent, and gives long life to the wine and promises a good evolution in time.
Coste delle Plaie 2010 Trebbiano d'Abruzzo DOC Superiore
Straw yellow color, 13% alcohol, a nose with mineral nuances, notes of white fruits, and undertones of aromatic herbs. Great balance of freshness and smoothness . This wine is made with the best Trebbiano vineyards of the estate, with a current total production of 95 quintals per hectar (about 21,000 pounds per acre.) The ripeness perceived in the wine is due to the fact that the vines [which produce this wine] are older. The grapes are hand picked, soft pressed, then the must ferments at a low temperature and refines with yeast in vetrified cement.
Amorino 2010 Abruzzo Pecorino DOC Superiore
Amorino (Italian for 'little love') is a love promise. In fact, in the Abruzzo region this wine was traditionally presented to the bride-to-be when by the groom-to-be when he asked for her hand. Originally an IGT wine, it was awarded the DOC Superiore denomination in 2010. Made with 100% Pecorino grapes, the wine has 13.5% alcohol, is straw yellow in color with light green highlights. The nose is reminiscent of the macchia mediterranea (maquis shrubland) and has good minerality. In this case case to the freshness stands out at first, opening the way to stronger flavor and fullness.
Coste delle Plaie 2010 Cerasuolo d'Abruzzo DOC
Obtained with the salasso (literally 'bloodletting') method, this wine has a pinkish flavor, which is reminiscent of the color of onion, and has gained much consensus on the market. Made with 100% Montepulciano grapes, this wine is 13% alcohol, has a fruity nose with notes of strawberry and raspberry, and a minreral finish. It is fresh round and balanced.
Costa delle Plaie 2007 Montepulciano D'Abruzzo DOC
This is one of the various interpretations of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo by the estate and the lack of wood flavor is intriguing. Made with high quality grapes form the vineyards located in the south east coast of the property, from where it acquire its mineral characteristics, the must is then left to macerate for over 30 days in iron vats. Intense ruby red in color with purple highlights, this wine is 13.5% alcohol. The nose is rich with mineral notes and hints of macchia mediterranea, scent of wet soil and has a background of plums and blueberries. The wine shows good balance, with tannins leaning toward velvety.
Amorino Casauria 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC
Casauria is a subzone [of the DOC Montepulciano], and the estate has focused its communication efforts on this wine. The Amorino Casauria represents another interpretation of the Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, as in this case it is aged in wooden tonneaus. In order not to overwhelm the wine with the wood notes, the estate uses delicately toasted barrels which allow the wine to express its full character. The color is ruby red with purplish highlights, has 13.5% of alcohol by volume, and represents a perfect fusion of minerality, cocoa notes, ripe fruits, and scent of Mediterranean bushes.
Podere Castorani 2007 Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC
Made with grapes from 40-year-old vines with low yeld per acre, this is the top wine produced by the estate. It is ruby red in color, with 14% alcohol, and balsamic notes of dark fruits to the nose. It is elegant, fresh, with enveloping tannins and light wood notes, this is a balanced wines which will further refine in the bottle in the coming years.
Jarno Rosso 2006 Colline Pescaresi IGT
With the Jarno Rosso (red) Jarno Bianco(white), the estate drops the strict production rules mandated by the DOC denomination to experiment with different techniques. Wanted by Jarno himself, who loves the Amarone della Valpolicella wine, this is the first ever Tuscan wine from Montepulciano made with withered grapes, or the techiniques used to make Amarone in Veneto. The wine is then aged for two years in wood casks. It has 14.5% alcohol, and a dark ruby red color. To the nose it reveals chocolate notes, jam, Mediterranean bush scent and a floral touch of violets. It is round, with a long finish and a fruity, mineraly, peppery aftertaste.
Jarno Biancho 2008 Colline Pescaresi IGT
Provocatively, this white was tasted after four reds. First produced in 2006 after the experiment with the Jarno Rosso, this wine is made with a blend of 60% Trebbiano d'Abruzzo, 30% Malvasia and 10% Coccociola. Part of he grapes are withered before crushing, then the juice is mixed with the grapes crushed regularly and then aged in wood for one year. It is a brilliant golden yellow color, with floral and ripe fruit notes to the nose. It has a touch of dried fruits, aromatic herbs and minerality in the mouth, with a touch of residual sugar.
About Us • Advanced Search • Login
Submit a Company • Contact Us • Site Map
 |
||
      |
Web Architect: Loris Scagliarini – Web site design and production: art-i-zen.com |
